Dia de la Reconquista

On the 28th - 29th of March Vigo celebrated its annual fiesta of liberation from Napoleonic forces (to read more about the history of this event, see previous post).

The day begins with a re-enactment of the arrival of the French, followed by life under occupation, we then were treated to the beginning of the rebellion, that eventually leads to a city wide uprising against the hapless invaders and Vigo's "Reconquest".

In the afternoon, the market stalls are in full swing, selling all manner of local produce; bread baked in log fired ovens, bocadillos (sandwich rolls) de chorizo, sweets, lollies, honey, jamon, wine, orujo (a type of liqueur), wicker baskets, lace. There was traditional dancers, music and much more.

Nowadays, the French have invaded once again, only this time not to the sound of guns, but to the sound of business. Citroen and Peugeot have a large car manufacturing plant here and employ thousands, whilst also injecting millions of Euros into the local economy. The largest supermarkets (of which there are four); Al Campo and Carrefour are both French owned. Needless to say that there are a lot of French people who live here and throughout the day, many a Frenchman would be seen to run out of a bar or pub and shout "Viva la France", before dashing back inside, rather than waiting for a response.

All in all it's a great day out and seeing Vigo's historic quarter come alive, makes a pleasant change, from it's otherwise neglected status. Wandering the cobblestone streets was a real pleasure, as you never knew what was going to be around the next corner.

Festa in Bouzas

Sunday in Bouzas is market day, with stalls mainly selling clothes, there is the odd food stall but it's really about finding cheap clothes or a D&G belt, it's not the most exciting market but the kids love it.

Bouzas lies in the south west of Vigo, situated within a small bay with moorings for private boats. It use to be an independent authority when Vigo was a smaller neighbour. It has a very quaint if small old town with bars and restaurants, many of which have been sympathetically restored in keeping with their surroundings. Citroen built a huge car holding area and port for their operations, fortunately this can't be seen whilst supping on a cold Estrella.

This day though we were in for a pleasant surprise, as the annual Festa Brincadeira was being held. Hidden behind the market day, down narrow cobblestone streets lined with straw, galician music filled the air and market stalls selling home-made wares from honey liqueur to hand made wicker baskets lined the street.

It was an assault on the senses, freshly cooked mussels from the bay, chorizo barbecued on an open fire, a traditional bread oven stoked with small logs churned out deliciously fresh bread all day, there was callos a kind of bean and bits of pig stew, (doesn't sound appetising but tastes great!) empanada of meat and tuna and with the stall vendors in period dress, the scene was set. Not to forget the wine drunk from small bowls and which flowed all to easily!

El Olivo - The Olive Tree

The olive tree, along with the Castro Fortress, appears on the coat of arms of Vigo. When the emblem was first designed, it was a tower and two olive branches, later the olive branches were replaced with the olive tree.

There are a few stories as to how the tree ended up at its present position on Paseo de Alfonso XII and just as many as to who originally planted it. What is not in dispute is its original location, which was the courtyard of the old Colegiata (Collegiate) Church (which no longer stands) but where you will now find the 19th century Colegiata Santa Maria.

The tree we see today is not the original, but rather a descendant. It is said that the original tree was planted during the 12th century, around the times of the Knights Templar. In 1780 a large gunpowder explosion in a nearby military store destroyed the church. When plans were made to build a new church on the site, and the tree was to be uprooted, a man with foresight by the name of Manuel Ángel Pereyra had the presence of mind to take a cutting which he planted, and in doing so kept the emblem of peace for the city alive, for many more generations to come.

Dia de la Reconquista de Vigo

"Dia de la Reconquista deVigo" - "The day of the Reconquest of Vigo"

On March 28th of each year, Vigo celebrates its reconquest against French Napoleonic Forces in the city’s historic old quarter 'Casco Vello'.

I have found very little on this subject written in English and what I have found is usually not more than a paragraph. Below is my attempt to address this problem and learn a little something during the process. This is my account of the Reconquista de Vigo.

The Napoleonic War, which had begun back in 1803, was now in full swing. Napoleon was attempting to enforce a European commercial boycott against Britain called the "Continental System". However Portugal would not comply so with the support of Spain, Napoleon sent an army to invade. Now this is where things get tricky as Spain had already asked Portugal to form an alliance against the encroaching Napoleonic Forces but secretly agreed with France that in return for its assistance be granted territories. Spain then after the capture of Lisbon, broke from the "Continental System" thereby rocking its alliance with France. On learning this, Napoleon under the guise of reinforcing the Spanish-Franco army in Portugal, sent into Spain thousands of French Troops. Then in February 1808 ordered his army to turn on their ally and seize key Spanish installations. One of the French divisions was under the command of Jean de Dieu Soult. The Peninsular War had begun. (Also known as the War of Spanish Independence.)

By August 1808 the British had entered the war, allied with Spain and Portugal. In December 1809 a small British force under the command of John Moore launched a surprise attack on French forces near Madrid in an attempt to "save" the city. The attempt proved disastrous and now with French forces aware of their position, Moore could do nothing but make a hasty retreat towards A Coruna, to waiting British Naval ships. Moore was chased all the way by Jean de Dieu Soult the commander of the French force and by 18th January 1809 the British had evacuated Dunkirk style from A Coruna. John Moore was not one of those who left that day and his grave can be seen at San Carlos Garden in La Coruna.

With the French Forces having secured A Coruna, they then turned their attention south and with little left to oppose them except the remnants of the Galician Army, they took the remaining towns with relative ease, only the use of guerrilla tactics hindered their progress. (These guerrilla tactics would eventually be one of the catalysts that would lead to their defeat.)

French Forces took Santiago de Compestela on the 20th January; Pontevedra fell but one day later. The French arrived at the gates of Vigo on the 31st of January. Vigo was in no state to mount any kind of defence. The remaining British troops had all but left and most of the local garrison had left with the Galician army. Vigo could only muster 39 soldiers and some of them were injured. It was decided that a militia be formed and some 200 volunteered.

The newly formed militia didn't trust the Mayor or the Commander of the garrison and were unwillingly to follow their lead on suspicion that they were French sympathisers and there was also a general dislike for the men. Both men were jailed in el Castro Castle, and the militia then elected a new Governor Juan de Villavicencio y Puga and a new Mayor/Judge a lawyer by the name of Francisco Javier Perez Varela. Then in a bizarre twist, all agreed that, to resist the French Forces would be tantamount to suicide, so they concluded that the next best thing would be to surrender. On the same day Napoleonic Forces entered Vigo, and terms of surrender were agreed.

The French Commander Soult then promptly released the pro-French Governor and Major and then promptly threw into prison their newly appointed counterparts. The French then called for reinforcements and the following day a further 1200 troops arrived, the capture of the city was completed on 4th February. Vigo was the last town in Galicia to surrender and it would be the first town to be liberated.

From the outset Vigo's French occupiers faced resistance. In yet another twist the supposed French sympathises namely the Governor & Mayor who having just been released from prison, asked that their newly appointed counterparts be freed. Their request fell on deaf ears. The Commander in turn asked for their obedience to the Emperor.

Then it was down to a few people, such as the Mayor of Valladares, to revive public spirit and to plot a way to rid Vigo of its occupiers. They began to supply militia outside of Vigo's walls with the means to engage the enemy in guerrilla tactics, by smuggling muskets and gunpowder. At first these attacks were sporadic and ill coordinated but in time they became organised and proved to be a real thorn in the side of the French occupiers. Meanwhile back in the town, locals were also causing trouble for the French. It is here that the two most notable figures of the reconquest make their mark, Bernardo Gonzalez del Valle, also known as Cachamuina, was a Second Lieutenant in the local militia and Pablo Morillo a Captain in the Galician Army. The men coordinated and led attacks against the French.

These attacks drew the support of many of the locals who quickly took up arms to aid in the raids. Within the first week of March the attacks had already begun to undermine the French position in the city. In response to these attacks the French replied by directing their aggression towards the locals, this along with hunger only inflamed the situation and drew more people to the militias cause.

The conditions within the town were fast becoming unbearable and Soult new his position was becoming unattainable. On 25th March he order the gates to be opened and provisions supplied, in a vain hope that this might appease the locals. It did nothing of the sought. Soult began negotiations for a “dignified exit” and this was granted on the 27th March. However the following day the people of Vigo would not allow the French invaders to leave without some form of recompense. And so, on the 28th March in Casco Vello a battle commenced with the people of Vigo armed with what ever they could lay their hands on, fighting hand to hand against the French soldiers.

Fifty-eight days after their capture of Vigo the French are driven out.

The 28th of March is a public holiday in Vigo and every year celebrations take place to pay tribute to those who rose up against the occupiers. Vigo’s Casco Vello comes alive with people dressed in period costume and even the battle is re-enacted. There is traditional music, food and festivities.

I missed it last year so I’m looking forward to this one!

Bar Universo en Vigo

Bar Universo, a relaxing place to unwind and soothe away the strains of the day... just remember the old adage 'never judge a book by it's cover'. However in this instance the cover continues inside, but they do reasonable cheap food.

My wife had decided to take me to an old bar/cafe, where her Dad used to take her when she was just a little girl during the early seventies. He would then leave her there for an hour or so, whilst he went to a secret location nearby to join other like minded individuals and talk freely about socialism, democracy and everything that was wrong with Franco's regime.

The place is still run by the same people, an elderly couple, perhaps now in their early seventies (it would have been impolite to have asked). The inside of the establishment, obviously hadn't seen a lick of paint in many a year, if it had have it would would have ruined the ambiance you felt of being whisked away to another time. Pictures of Celta Vigo football team a yellow/brown colour from the years of cigarette smoke line the walls, a cigarette machine from a time well before euros and of course the obligatory TV perched high in a corner, at or very near full volume. Our only company for lunch was a truck driver and his son from Andulucia and the our elderly hosts husband eating a huge plate of cocido (galician stew).

For starters we had salad and calamares, the salad was as fresh as you would have found in any restaurant (fresher probably) and the same could be said for the calamares. For mains my wife had bacalao (cod) with boiled potatoes, while I had steak with fries, both dishes were well cooked. You have to realise that this place is not a restaurant and all food served is as you would expect when eating at home, large helpings! Desert was tarta de abuela for me and a cheesecake for my wife.
We also had two cervezas, two glasses of wine, two coffees and a bottle of cafe liquor plonked on our table to help ourselves to. All this for only €12.

Although this place doesn't entice, it does have other hidden qualities!

What's on this weekend in Vigo? 01st-02nd March

Que hacer este fin de semana en Vigo?

The Funny Bones are playing at Manteca Jazz this Staurday night with two sets. Their fusion of funk kicks off at 00:30 and the second set at 02:00 Entrance cost €3 Find them done in the old town Calle Carral No.3 just off Plaza Porto do Sol.

I use to be able to do these late night gigs but with two young kids it's hard enough getting through the day!

Specialty shops of Vigo

Have you ever wanted to go into a shop that only sold the item you're looking for? Specialty stores although small, provide a staggering range of possibilities for that one thing you're after.

Here in Vigo these family run businesses, handed down from generation to generation, were once the cornerstone of every day life, but now are struggling in the face of the big supermarket chains and hyperstores and many have shut their doors simply because they can't compete on price. Which is a shame as they offer personal service and friendly advice, which is a far cry from their high-powered counterparts. However they can still be found and enjoyed if you know where to look.

These specialty shops are from a bygone era and specialty really is there middle name. They can sell everything from watches to umbrellas One of my personal favourites is the one pictured above, a Zapatilleria or a Slipper Shop in el barrio Calvario, Calle Urzaiz. This shop is almost entirely dedicated to slippers, I say almost because the word zapatilla originally only meant slipper but upon the arrival of sneakers, trainers or whatever you like to call them, were also given the name zapatilla. So I guess in a way this allowed Zapatillerias to branch out and diversify without the need for re-invention!

Another favourite of mine also in Calvario is a shop which has two specialties, which I think couldn't be further apart from one another; knives and umbrellas. Every conceivable space around the walls of the shop and ceiling are crammed with every possible type of umbrella, the counter is the only place along with a small portion of the back wall that is devoted to knives.

These shops are an intriuging insight into the past and if you get the chance go take a look, before they're all gone!